Added April 24, 2008

Wine Cocktails!

Wine cocktails are made with still or sparkling wine and are separate from regular cocktails as wine is the main alcoholic agent (as opposed to a hard liquor cocktail that might have a little wine). The most popular and best known wine cocktails are Kir and Kir Royale, Sangria, Spritzer, Mimosa and the Bellini.

In Transylvania, where I originally came from, we used to drink chilled red wine with Coca-Cola, so I've learned not to be too much of a snob about mixing wine (not that I do it). My late father favoured "froccs": white wine with mineral water.. It's the Transylvanian version of a spritzer, but Itink it sounds better.

What got me thinking about this was my friend, Xenia. She hosted a party at her posh downtown TO penthouse the other night and she served a wine punch made with Chablis, orange juice, Russian Vodka, pineapple compote and Chile pepper flakes. All the ingredients were chilled in advance, so no ice was used, nor stirring. The whole thing served in a former fish aquarium! I thought it was delightful!...And what an imaginative idea to serve it in a goddamn fish bowl!

I have recently returned from a trip to Chile and discovered Pisco Sour!
Apparently, the birth of the Pisco Sour is attributed to the English steward of a sailing ship named "Sunshine", ca. 1870. The distillate used to make this cocktail is made from the Moscatel de Setubal grape and has a 40% plus alcoholic strength. Lime and/or lemon juice is added, sugar and bitters. I also heard that egg white is sometimes added and the mixture is stirred and shaken over ice. The result is a tonic spring and summer sipper with a very refreshing, sour and tart aspect. It is great to be served at cocktail parties, with certain desserts such as key lime pie, or even with light fish and/or seafood.

At a dinner function in Melbourne back in Sept., last year, I was served a cocktail made with rose sparkling wine, still rose wine, kirsch liquor, dash of English Gin, grapefruit juice, whole strawberries with edible flower petal garnish, and called "Pink Ethernity". Very sexy AND tasty indeed!

But, the best tasting cocktail was served to me by my friend, Michael Pataran at his resto, Shogun Revolver in Nassau, The Bahamas. I asked him about it:

"Zoltan, this is our house cocktail at Shogun Revolver is called the "Golden Revoler" and we sell a ton at $18 a pop. The recipe is Moet Chandon Brut Imperial 4 oz.; Inniskillin Oak-Aged Vidal Icewine 1/2 oz.; Gekkeikan Plum Sake 1 oz.; Plum - ginger syrup 1/2 oz.. Add plum syrup, sake and Icewine to a Champagne flute. Drop in 4 frozen oven-dried grapes (I call the Graisins) and pour over the Champagne to fill glass. I call this "sex in a flute"!"

And I call it hedonism!

Play around with the amount of ingredients... after all, it's about personal taste!

Added April 2, 2008

2007 Semillon, Legends, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula

The fruit comes from the 2.5 acre lakefront vineyard with a picturesque view. It's right in front of the winery, just by the water, so it's also a perfect summer wedding spot. Tropical, kiwi and guava, gooseberry and floral notes on the nose. Light to medium bodied, displaying zesty citrus fruit and herbal flavours. The finish is long and fresh. Much better than the 2006 vintage! Made by young and talented winemaker, Serge Papineau. 4 + stars out of 5.

2007 Gewurztraminer, Legends, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula

Discreet, but pretty and delicate bouquet. Fairly light and tasty with a long lychee flavoured finish. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Legends, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula

Aromas of lime, pink grapefruit and fresh herbs. Medium bodied and juicy with great acidity. Very good! 4 + stars out of 5.

2007 Chardonnay, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Still ageing in a blend of new Hungarian, American & French oak. Full malolactic fermentation. Rich nose with ripe tropical fruit, toasty, oaky, coconut nuances. Medium to full bodied with a dry, lime, cedar finish. Will be available in June. A Chardonnay that showing great potential already. Still "in works". (No rating yet.)

2002 Chardonnay Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

A big and bold Chardonnay with orange toffee, vanilla crème caramel aromas and flavours. Full bodied and creamy. Drink now, decant and serve just below room temperature. 4 stars out of 5.

2003 Riesling Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula (750 ml)

Grapes were cluster pressed. Think of apples, citrus fruit and wet limestone when smelling and tasting this wine. There's 17 gr. of sugar perfectly balanced by a vivid core of acidity. The finish is long and tart. This is a delicious Riesling, not showing 5 years of age. Still fresh and juicy with an appealing sweetness. Available in both 375 ml (showing maturity) and 750 ml bottles. 4 + stars out of 5.

2003 Muscat Ottonel, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Bouquet of apricot and muscat grape preserve. Flavoursome and soft. Drink now! Great novelty choice for the Sommelier to pour by the glass for the adventurous client.

3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2007 Rose, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

75% Malbec, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fermented like a white wine, 48 hrs. coald soaked. Bright nose of red berries, red plum and floral. Light to medium bodied with a tiny sweetness, great acidity and a long-lingering raspberry, pomegranate finish. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2003 Pinot Noir, Mariafeld, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Mariafeld is a Swiss Pinot clone. Raspberry, plums, herbal and spicy tones on the bouquet. Medium bodied with plenty of cranberry and plums flavours. The tannins are soft and dusty. The finish is spicy, herbaceous. Very good! Drinking well now. Don't be afraid of spending a little money...it's $56! 4 + stars out of 5.

2002 Pinot Noir Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Complex aromas of red currant, red cherry, sage, floral, dried morel mushroom, leather and musk. Dry, medium to full bodied with still a good grip of tannins. Kirsch, spicy finish. Stylistically speaking this Pinot it's like Burgundy meets North of Italy! And you pay for it! $150! Try with slow fire roasted venison. 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Black currant, black cherry, dark chocolate, nutmeg, herbs, pipe smoke and tomato leaf aromas. Dry, full with lots of black fruit flavour and tannins coming on its finish. Try with prime rib with good fat on t! 4 stars out of 5.

2002 Meritage, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Black fruit, herbs and Indian spice on its bouquet. Medium bodied with supple tannins. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Malbec Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

It has 15% Petit Verdot blended in it. Blueberries, spicy, peppery, smokey, gamey accents on the nose. Full bodied with tight mid palate. It has a pleasant, fruity finish. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2006 Shiraz Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Black cherry berry, peppercorn, roasted portobello and wood smoke, vanilla aromas. Medium to full bodied, juicy with "furry" tannins and spicy finish. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2003 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Legends, Niagara Peninsula

Aromas of black cherry, grilled red and green peppers, tomato paste and dried leafs. Medium bodied and savoury with soft tannins. Try with thyme roasted lamb. 3 1/2 stars stars out of 5.

Added March 15, 2008

2006 Pinot Noir, Norman Hardie, PEC
A lovely, delicate style Pinot with silky smooth texture. Drinking very well now. Winemaker Norman Hardie says: "Never judge a Pinot Noir by its color....a good looking woman is equally intriguing with lots of clothes as she is with little clothing on". 4 + out of 5.

2007 Melon de Bourgogne, Norman Hardie, PEC
Hardie gets the grapes from neighboring Casa Dea farm. Citrus, white peach and benchmark PEC limestone aromas. Light and very fresh with an interesting herbal, menthol finish. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2007 Pinot Gris, Norman Hardie, PEC
Made from 100% County fruit, sourced from 4 different sites. Appealing pear and kiwi accents on its bouquet. Light to med weight with a lovely texture and zesty, minerally finish. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2006 Chardonnay, Norman Hardie, PEC
Made from Niagara grapes. Aged 35% stainless steel, rest in 500 L new barrels. Aromas and flavours of apples, pink grapefruit with underlying campfire ash and "funk". Extended lees contact is evident. Medium bodied and crisp with high mineral notes on its finish. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Chardonnay, Sans Barriques, Norman Hardie, PEC
The "opening act" comes with grapefruit pulp, fresh green herbs and minerals. This wine needs decanting, airation and just below room temperature serving. As it opens up, very neat peach and tropical fruit notes shine through. The texture, as in the case of many of Hardie's wines, is superior. Try it with meaty, heavy duty Irish Flat oysters. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

NV Brut, Methode Traditionnelle, Chateau des Charmes, Niagara Peninsula
Great label with a stoic, regal flair...dark blue and green with gold diamonds. Tiny, almost invisible, but very active bubbles. The bouquet is delicate, with apple and pear blossom, tart tropical fruit, tamarillo and baking, raising buns accents. Medium to full bodied with a candied citrus fruit, orange toffee, sweet nutty flavours; a broad and creamy mousse and a very long, vibrant finish. Just outstanding! I am very tempted to say that this is the finest Ontario sparkler that I have ever tasted, but for that I need a few more bottles of this complex yet elegant bubbly to be re-tasted for tomorrow's breakfast, lunch and dinner! Kudos for the peeps at Ch des Ch! What a slick sparkler!
4 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2004 Chardonnay, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, Chateau des Charmes, St. David's Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Stone fruit, honey, floral, vanilla and mineral, fresh baked bread, almond and fresh fennel aromas. Medium to full bodied with lots of pear and lime flavours, outstanding acidity and a long, spicy, vanilla oak finish. Great wine! Will age well for 5 + years. 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Chardonnay Musque, Chateau des Charmes, NOTL, Niagara Peninsula
Very pretty and exotic, tropical, spicy notes on its nose. Medium bodied and fresh with a very long and pleasant fresh lime pulp, under-ripe and tart muscat grape finish. 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Clubhouse White Vidal, Rockway Glen, Ontario
Citrus, pineapple, pink grapefruit and grapey notes on the nose and palate. Light and fresh enough with green apple skin, peach pit flavours on its finish. Drink now. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Pinot Gris, Rockway Glen, Niagara Peninsula
Bottle needs to be opened at least 30 min. before consumption. Once the excess SO2 blows off, this wine shows pear, tropical, orange and honey nuances on its bouquet. It's medium bodied with just a touch of sweetness, fairly soft acidity and red apple flavoured finish. Drink now or hold 6 months. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

Zoltan Szabo is the quintessential North American success story: from non-English-speaking busboy to star sommelier in under a decade. He has done more to raise the profile of the sommelier profession than busloads of stiff, tastevin-toating wine stewards, bringing a fresh, appealing, wholly inclusive approach to sharing his enthusiasm for wine. Zoltan has been recognized repeatedly by his colleagues, winning Toronto Star sommelier of the year in 2003, top spot at Tony Aspler's Ontario Wine Awards blind tasting competition in 2005 and most recently was named "promoter of the year 2006" for the Ontario Wine Industry during their annual Cuvée gala in recognition of his significant support of local artisans of the grape. He has appeared in dozens of publications and interviews and has become the poster boy of the modern sommelier: fun, confident, highly knowledgeable and down to earth. He has been dubbed the Clive Owen and the 007 of wine as well as Toronto's sexiest sommelier.

Professionally, Zoltan has created and oversees many award winning wine programs for some of the finest restaurants in Toronto garnering him additional accolades from the local media and the Wine Spectator. He is a contributing editor for CityBites Magazine, Drinks editor of Asian Gourmet, and contributes tasting notes to a variety of prominent publications and organizations, such as winerytohome.com, Vines Magazine and the Ontario Restaurant News.

These days Zoltan spends the majority of his time as a guest speaker at wine-soaked events, delivers Wine Council of Ontario training seminars and travels the world as an international wine judge. Otherwise you can often catch him at one of his favourite local haunts enjoying a glass of unusual, cutting edge vino". - John Szabo, MS

Zoltan is currently consulting for Skyline Boutique Hotels Inc., whose 8 Wine Bar at The Cosmopolitan (8 Colborne Lane) offers more than 50 cutting edge wines by the glass.

2006 Clubhouse Red Baco Noir, Marechal Foch and Cabernet, Rockway Glen, Ontario
Black cherry, blueberry, herbal, gamey, tar, tobacco and sweet earth aromas. Medium to full bodied with sour black fruit, herbaceous flavours and finish and soft tannins. Serve slightly chilled and try with gourmet pizza, burgers or a big bowl of spaghettini in spicy tomato, mushroom ragu. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Riesling, Stoney Ridge, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Green apple, tart white peach, some under-ripe tropical fruit notes and flinty, limestone aromas. Light, fresh and juicy with Granny Smith, citrus zest finish. Great value! 4 stars out of 5.

2004 Meritage, Stoney Ridge, Jim Warren Founder's Signature Series, Niagara Peninsula
The "official" red of Queen's Park's Legislative Assembly for 2008. Despite vintage, this Bordeaux blend displays sweet and ripe red plum and herbaceous, green tea aromas. Medium bodied and with a fairly soft texture and spicy, cranberry, cigar, tobacco leaf finish. 4 stars out of 5.

2005 Meritage, Fielding, Niagara Peninsula
Concentrated red and blue fruit, mint, herbal aroma and flavour character. A supple Bordeaux blend with integrated, ripe tannins and "spot on" balance. Will age med term. If you can't wait to try it, match it with slow fire roasted caribou tenderloin in blueberry Port reduction. 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Chardonnay Reserve, Fielding, Niagara Peninsula
Big stone fruit, buttered popcorn, canned orange and tangerine-packed nose and palate. Full, juicy and with a long, plush finish. 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Riesling Icewine, Fielding, Niagara Peninsula
Pear and white liquorice tea. Not too sweet, but intense with searing acidity. Excellent Icewine! 4 + stars out of 5.

1999 Vidal Icewine, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, Mountain Road Wine Company, Niagara Peninsula
Pure pech and nectarine jam nose with floral accents. It's showing much younger than it is on the palate as well, with lively acidity and a very long finish! So delicious! 4 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2003 Vidal Icewine, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, Mountain Road Wine Company, Niagara Peninsula
Lemon, canned pineapple, honey and mint chocolate. Sweet and mid weight with acid-hot finish. 4 + stars out of 5.

2004 Vidal Icewine, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, Mountain Road Wine Company, Niagara Peninsula
Muted aromas with traces of TCA. Cork absorbed flavours. My bottle only, or the whole batch? N/A

2002 Vidal Icewine, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, Mountain Road Wine Company, Niagara Peninsula
Weird and funky with plastic flavours and finish. Faulty with VA and/or other bacterial issues. N/A

2000 Vidal Icewine, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, Mountain Road Wine Company, Niagara Peninsula
Light amber cooper. Spicy toffee, tea, herbal, roasted root vegetable nuances. Orange confit flavours and very sour finish. VA presence, tolerable amount. 2 1/2 stars out of 5.

2001 Vidal Icewine, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Vineyard, Mountain Road Wine Company, Niagara Peninsula
Typical quince and lemon preserve notes on its bouquet, with some interesting earthy, field mushroom traces. It's sweet & sour with plenty of acidity and an almost dry finish. Interesting. Would be even better without those funky secondary aromas. 3 + stars out of 5.

2003 Mountain Road Red, Mountain Road Wine Company, Ontario
Blend of Gamay Noir, Baco Noir & Marechal Foch. Light and easy with sour berry aromas and flavours. Serve slightly chilled. Best with a nice, big gourmet burger with lots of pickles. 2 1/2 stars out of 5.

2003 Gamay Noir, Steve Kocsis Mountain Road Farm, Mountain Road Wine Company Non-VQA
High-toned nose of raspberries, cassis, violet floral, herbs and exotic spice. More body here than expected, and tannicky as well. Try with BBQ steaks. 3 stars out of 5.

2003 Marechal Foch, Mountain Road Wine Company, Ontario
Deep opaque. Black cherry, plums, currants, spice, mocca roasted coffee aromas. Light to medium bodied with grippy, extracted tannins and tart, leather dry finish. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2003 Baco Noir, Mountain Road Wine Company Non-VQA
Deep, almost black. Sour black plums, tar earth compost and herbal notes. Medium bodied, soft and savoury with prune-flavoured finish. Drink now! 3 stars out of 5.

2005 Unoaked Chardonnay, Mountain Road Wine Company, Beamsville Bench
Citrus, pink grapefruit, fresh tart green apples with almost non-detectable earthy fragrances. The palate it's just like taking a bite of a ripe Granny Smith. Clean, fresh, straightforward and highly food friendly Chardonnay. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2004 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Mountain Road Wine Company, Beamsville Bench
Pear, tropical, buttery, lactic aromas. Full and round with lots of flavour and a spicy oak cedar finish. Will age well mid term, 3-5 years. Well made. 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Riesling Icewine, Henry of Pelham, Niagara Escarpment
"Bright, crisp & clean" - Ron Giesbrecht says. Pear, lemon confit, floral, honey & fresh fennel notes on the nose. Rich and very flavoursome, it has great acidity and a very long Williams pear finish.
4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Syrah, Canadian Oak, Lailey, Niagara Peninsula
Spicy nose of white pepper, blueberry, red currant with underlying and provocative floral, sundried tomato and horse stable nuances. Medium bodied with intense spicy berry flavours and grippy tannins. A very well made and pure expression of Syrah! 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Chardonnay, Old Vines, Lailey, Niagara River
"This is harvested from our vineyard also- these vines were planted in 1973. We have lost a lot of these old vines from the poor winters of 2003 and 5 but we are picking the older vines from within this block now and fermenting separately, This wine was just bottled in early December- only 80 cases produced" as winemaker Derek Barnett explains. Light golden and bright with mustard green tinge. Tropical fruit, cedar, fresh fennel, vanilla cream and fresh jarred raw honeycomb beeswax aroma combo. Medium to full bodied, viscous and flavoursome with a buttery texture and oak spice finish. Best to drink it 5-6 months from now when all elements will integrate and the wine will round out nicely. It will also age short to med term. 4 stars out of 5.

2006 Pinot Noir, Lailey, Niagara River
Hightoned red cherry, raspberry, potpourri, fresh ginger, earth, truffles and barnyard. Light to medium bodied with a fairly soft and juicy mouthfeel and light, chalky tannins. The finish has fresh, souir cranberry and loose tea leaf tones. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2006 Impromptu, Lailey, Niagara Peninsula
Red currant, cilantro, pink grapefruit, musk and leather. Light to medium bodied with thyme, savoury flavours. It has bright, but balanced acidity. Highly food friendly. Great with stew of white beans and tomato puree, Michael Stadtlander's smoked bacon, leek and salsify. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2006 Chardonnay, Lailey, Niagara Peninsula
Lime - lemon, popcorn - canned creamed corn, pear - pear blossom and limestone fragrances. Light to medium bodied and very crisp with zesty citrus fruit and neutral oak tones; earthy, mineral finish. Chablis lovers' Chardonnay! Needs food! 3 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2005 Le Grand Vin, Osoyoos Larose, Okanagan Valley, BC
It has the nose of a very good Haut-Medoc, but the texture of a great St. Emilion! Rich aromas of lush blue fruit and cassis, chared oak, smoke, tar and underlying mineral, herbal, pencil shavings, even seashell tones. Medium to full bodied and dry. It has a very concentrated flavour composition with polished oak notes poking out, and softer (compared to previous vintages), integrated tannins. An outstanding wine that will evolve nicely. Cellar it for at least 5 years!
4 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2006 Melon, Malivoire, Niagara Peninsula
Brilliant light straw colour. Smells like fresh green apples, apple blossom and limestone. Light, but gutsy, dry and very tart with citrus, fresh herb, mineral flavours and finish.. Try it with meaty Irish Flat Galway oysters....That's what I did the other night at Starfish and the match was just spot on! 4 stars out of 5.

2005 Pinot Noir, Estate Bottled, Malivoire, Niagara Peninsula
700 cases made only. Red cherry, pomegranate, spicy sweet peony, mandarin orange and fresh trumpet mushroom aromas. Medium bodied with intense flavours and long finish. A great Pinot by "hands-in-the-dirt-winemaker" Shiraz Mottiar. I had it with Marc Thuet's boudin noir au jus and fresh white truffle mash and I was a happy camper! 4 stars out of 5.

2005 Pinot Noir, Moira, Malivoire, Beamsville Bench
Bouquet of kirschwasser, red currant, raspberry, some soft blue fruit, mint, wild forest and white truffles. Medium bodied and it's not yet fully developed. It has an interesting flavour combo with persimmon, tamarillo and spicy notes on the palate and a youthful tannic bite on its finish. Decant if you drink it now, but best to cellar this baby for 2-3 years! 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Cabernet Franc Icewine, Eastman Vineyard, Malivoire, Niagara Peninsula
Aromas of strawberry marmalade, white chocolate and dried flower petals and herbs with a hint of sweet paprika spice. It has a gorgeous mouthfeel, luscious flavours, an outstanding spine of acidity and a long finish. A superb Icewine! 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2004 Brut, Methode Traditionelle, Cave Spring, Niagara Escarpment
Bouquet of peach, apples, toast, sweet summer hay and nutty nuances. It has a crip mousse and a very long lime, brioche finish. Outstanding! Buy till you can! It's going to be even better around the holiday season! 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Small Lot Riesling, Steel Post, Thirty Bench, Beamsville Bench
Pungent nose of lime, sour apples, crushed limestone dust with some underlying and very intriguing mineral salt/male sweat, and even some lightly aged gouda nuances. It's zesty and minerally on the palate with piercing acidity and a lingering, crisp finish. This is a serious, ageworthy, Riesling lovers' Riesling and I could indeed bath in it! Needs food! 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Pinot Gris, Trumpour's Mill, The Grange of Prince Edward, Hillier, PEC
The finest Ontario Pinot Gris! Spot on Alsatian in style! Made from grapes coming from the Isabella vineyard. Complex aromas of apples, dried apricot and peach, orange preserve, floral, honey and bee's wax. Medium bodied, dry with candied stone fruit and tropical flavours, outstanding acidity and an unmistakable County minerality on its very long finish. It can pair up well with many dishes, from lighter desserts, fruit flans and such to duck l'orange and smoked white fish. 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Pinot Gris, Huff Estates, PEC
Pink grapefruit, lime and limestone on the nose. Light to medium bodied with lime and sour pineapple flavours and a crisp finish. Try with octopus ceviche. 4 stars out of 5.

2006 Syrah, Momentum Series, Caroline Cellars, Niagara Peninsula
A sour, savoury, lighter style Syrah with spicy black cherry, plums and roasted peppers on the nose and palate. Easy drinking with a warm finish. 3 stars out of 5.

2005 Merlot, Caroline Cellars, Niagara Peninsula
Slightly high-toned black berries, wet tobacco leaf, cacao powder and vanilla aromas. Medium bodied, juicy with soft, leathery tannins. Unpretentious wine for every day consumption. Try with lamb stewed in tomato, orange zest, fennel. 3 + stars out of 5.

2006 Viognier Reserve, Peninsula Ridge, Niagara Peninsula
100% barrel fermented and aged. Bouquet of nectarines, peaches, orange and tangerine, spicy floral and honey. Medium bodied with grapefruit and orange zest flavours, great acidity and an orange brulee-like, warm to hot finish. Mid palate yet to develop. 250 cases made only! Heavenly with duck l'orange! 4 stars out of 5.

2006 Merlot, Peninsula Ridge, Niagara Peninsula
Blue and black fruit, smoke, game and clove, cinnamon spice aromatics. Medium bodied with spicy, peppery, blueberry fruit flavours, grippy tannins and medium long finish. Try with gourmet burgers, meat lovers' pizza and maffia movies. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2005 Ratafia, Peninsula Ridge, Niagara Peninsula
Chardonnay juice "fortified" with plum brandy and aged in French oak. The nose is liquorous with yellow plum and white chocolate aroma nuances. Flavoursome and luscious, the 18% alcohol not showing at all, so watch out! Just a lovely mistelle! Serve chilled as aperitif or digestife, or with blue cheese. 4 stars out of 5.

2006 Viognier, Fielding Vineyards, Fielding Estates, Beamsville Bench
Made from 6 years old vines. light golden with bright edge. Into-your-face aromas of stone fruit, honey, banana, pineapple, flower petals and vanilla. Medium to full bodied, ripe with just enough acidity to balance its weight and its bold tropical fruit flavours, and with medium intensity finish. Impressive. Drink now with pan seared oily textured white fish and fruit salsa, drizzled with fine extra virgin olive oil and lots of lime/lemon juice, roasted salsify and butter-drenched baby bok choy. 4 + stars out of 5.

2005 Red, Thirty Bench, Beamsville Bench
Cab Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend, aged 12 to 18 months in French oak. Plums, raspberry, blueberry, vanilla oak bouquet. Medium bodied with great fruit intensity, balanced tannins and a lasting finish. Well made. Cellar for 5 to 7 years. 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Riesling, Estate Bottled, Chateau des Charmes
Ripe and lush tropical fruits, stone fruit, lemon custard and plenty of minerals on the nose. Light to medium bodied and very crisp with pure lime, green orange flavours and sublime minerality, finishing with a kick of vibrant acidity. 4 stars out of 5.

2006 Pinot Noir, Estate Bottled, Chateau des CharmesRed currant, red cherry, raspberry and lots of spicy notes on its bouquet and palate. Light with leathery tannins. Needs some time to fatten up a bit and to have all its elements integrated. Yet to be released. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2005 Riesling CSV, Cave Spring
Suave tropical mineral nose, little shy right now. Medium bodied with so much explosive flavours, incredible acidity and a long sour green fruit finish. Best to drink it from 2010 on. 4 + stars out of 5.

Added March 5, 2008

Monsoon
Popped by Monsoon on Friday night last moth at around 8:00 PM, to notice a fully packed dining room with diners between the ages 22-40, extremely well dressed, having fun and loud, eating and drinking.

I was nicely greeted by the lovely and very attentive Candice Tracy, the general manager.

I decided to sit in the lounge area, where it was quiet, at a high stool, and order myself dinner. The top of the bar stool's surface was round and tiny, with a candle inside a small metal cage. Trying to move it away from me, so I can check out the menu and wine list, I have burnt myself...stupid me for touching it!

Candice came back and recited the evening specials. I decided, however, to order one signature appetizer and one signature main course off the regular menu.

She brought me deep fried taro root chips for me served in small straw basket with bamboo bottom. They were flavourful with great texture and a pleasant crunch, but not totally dry, maintaining a tiny amount of moistness.

While waiting for the first course, I sipped Henry of Pelham's Riesling Reserve, a lovely, crisp and citrusy, minerally white.

Salmon tartare arrives served with grean tea and creme fresh mousse and baked lotus root atop, in a cylindrical shape...the mousse is way too sweet, although once you mix a little wasabi (there's a touch of it on the side of the little poison-green square plate that it's served on) it's much better! The service staff should advise patrons to do mix the wasabi right in the mousse for each bite... or use a squeeze of lime to elevate things a bit. My Riesling goes well with this dish.

The main is a glorious 6 oz. piece of Cumbrae Farm, grain fed beef tenderloin, cooked medium rare, served with garlic, chive mash with two fat and perfectly steamed green asparagus on the side. The reduction is natural jus enriched by turmeric spice and beet juice. There's sautéed, delicately mild king mushroom too.

I get a glass of Aussie Pinot Noir with it. I love the beef! Great dish! I sit back and truly enjoy everything.

The music is upbeat and funky, but not too loud and there's a classic movie playng projected right on the wall in the lounge.

I have no dessert, but a dash of chilled Grappa. After, I ask the actor-wannabe and pretty bartender to land me a cigarette, and I call a cab.

Pop by Monsoon, you won't regret. For more info, address and hours of operation please visit www.monsoonrestaurant.ca.

Added February 15, 2008

Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara
www.hiddenbench.com

2006 Riesling, Rosomel Vineyard - Roman's Block, Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Look for red apple, tropical fruit, white licorice tea, floral and smoke, limestone notes on the nose. Light to medium bodied with an ample texture, juicy, ripe apple flavours, bursting acidity and a very long, zesty finish. A unique style Riesling, celebrating the stellar potential of the Rosomel Vineyard of Beamsville Bench and its terroir. 4 1/2 + star out of 5.

2005 Chardonnay, Veilles Vignes, Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Stone fruit, oak smoke, white flower petals and vanilla panacotta aromas. Medium to full bodied with a creamy mouthfeel and orange confit finish. Just like candy to me! Drinking well already! 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2005 Chardonnay, Tete de Cuvee, Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Exotic, tropical, floral bouquet with underlying fennel and roasted cashew accents. Medium bodied, focused acidity and intense flavours with a long-lingering tangerine, apricot finish. Will age well. 4 1/2 + stars out of 5.

2006 Fume Blanc, Rosomel Vineyard, Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Under-ripe tropical fruit and savoury nuances on its nose. Medium bodied and very crisp with greengage plum and herbal flavours, totally integrated oak and a long, crisp finish. 4 + stars out of 5.

2006 Viognier, Locust Lane Vineyard, Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Lightly honeyed nectarines and floral scents with peach pit accent. Medium bodied with a very pleasant and slightly oily texture, explosive flavour composition and long finish. 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2006 Nuit Blanche, Rosomel Vineyard, Hidden Bench, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula
Complex bouquet and palate with stone fruit, tropical, smoke and savoury nuances. Showing almost no oak, which proves the capacity of the Semillon grape of absorbing it so well! It has medium body, tart acidity and a long citrus finish. 4 + stars out of 5.

Added January 11, 2008 (Gremolata 160).

Le Clos Jordanne, Niagara (leclosjordanne.com)

2005 Pinot Noir, Village Reserve, Le Clos Jordanne
Made from (most) grapes coming from the Talon Vineyard. Brilliant, light violet purple colour. Aromas of red berries, blueberry, floral, exotic spice with underlying earth and musk tones. Light to medium bodied with integrated oak, acid, alcohol. Tannins are "pocking out" adding structure, and a herbal spicy finish. The "deal of the vintage", according to winemaker Thomas Bachelder. It is indeed! So grab some till you can! 4 stars out of 5

2005 Pinot Noir, Le Petite Vineyard, Le Clos Jordanne
Raspberry, fleshy black cherry, fresh mint, earth and mineral bouquet. Medium bodied, juicy with lots of sweet red and black fruit flavours, "chalky" tannins and a medium-long finish. Try with Coq au Vin. Lots of it! 4+ stars out of 5

2005 Pinot Noir, Claystone Terrace, Le Clos Jordanne
The colour is darkest among Le Clos Jordanne Pinots. So are the aromas! Black berry, rhubarb, beet root, spice, game and earth. Medium plus bodied with grippy tannins and an earthy, herbaceous finish. Great match with organic Berkshire pork tenderloin in chanterelle, fig, Pinot demi. 4+ stars out of 5

2005 Pinot Noir, Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, Le Clos Jordanne
Drop dead gorgeous! Perfumed and vivid nose of red cherry, violet and rose petals, spice. Medium bodied, fresh, with cranberry flavours, velvety tannins and a long finish. Complex, yet elegant. Slow fire roasted fennel-scented duck breast in Pinot Noir reduction. 4 1/2 + stars out of 5

2005 Pinot Noir, Le Grand Clos, Le Clos Jordanne
"Noble" and pure! Full bodied with broad and plenty of cherry berry flavours, an uncompromising tannic spine and a long-lingering finish. Might be even better in 2 to 5 years from now! Drink now with slow braised Turducken (partially de-boned turkey stuffed with a de-boned duck, which itself is stuffed with a small de-boned chicken), stuffed with seasoned breadcrumbs, dried cranberries and sausage. 4 1/2 stars out of 5

2005 Chardonnay, Village Reserve, Le Clos Jordanne
Stone fruit, mango, vanilla, fresh fennel and limestone. Medium to full bodied, ripe, with sweet summer fruit, vanilla oak flavours and benchmark minerality. "Due to long elevage, easier to maintain the terroir aspect", explains Bachelder. Ideal food match: chilled lobster salad with fennel, mango and aged balsamic. 4 stars out of 5.

2005 Chardonnay, Claystone Terace, Le Clos Jordanne
Big and chunky with candied lemon, yellow apples, yellow plum, baking spice and limestone dust fragrances. Full bodied with ripe peach, pear, Meyer lemon flavours and acidity "in check". Pan roasted monkfish with wild garlic and ginger. 4 stars out of 5

2005 Chardonnay, Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, Le Clos Jordanne
Elegant and discreet. Lovely mineral nose here. On the palate there's lots of sweet, lightly honeyed fruit flavours with outstanding acidity giving a lift to the weight. The finish is bursting of minerality! This wine would put to shame many great white Burgundies! Goes well with Ontario Northern Pike filet in lemon butter Chardonnay. 4 1/2 + stars out of 5

2005 Chardonnay, Le Grand Clos, Le Clos Jordanne
Aromas and flavours of juicy apples, orange blossom and limestone. Medium bodied with apricot, orange flavours, great acid and lenght, with an interesting, almost salty, minerally tone on the finish. "Quiet" right now, but who knows how it will show in a year or so? Great with Burgundian cheeses such as Époisses, Chaource, Abbaye de la Pierre qui Vire. 4 1/2 stars out of 5

Selections from Azureau (Wine Agents - www.azureau.com)

2004 Pinot Grigio "Reserve", Marc Cellars, Sonoma County, California
Misslabelled?! Pretty fresh for '04..."Reserve" term on the label is also strange...Apples and orange rind/blossom. Light with a tiny touch of sweetness and fresh, bitter almond-flavoured finish. 3 stars out of 5.

2005 Pinot Noir "Reserve", Marc Cellars, Sonoma County, California
Jammed fruit, cherries, raspberry, mint herbal floral combo. Medium bodied with sweet berry fruit flavours and a light bite of tannins. 3 1/2 stars out of 5

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Especial, "Sibaris", Undurraga, Maipo, Chile
Typical Maipo cassis & mint notes. Medium to full bodied, juicy and very tasty with structured, leathery tannins. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5

2004 "Yiron", Galil Mountain Winery, Upper Galilee, Israel
Cabernets with little Merlot & Syrah. Ripe with red currant, raspberry, plums, figs, herbal, earth, leather aromas. Full bodied and well balanced with a bright cherry, pipe tobacco finish. 4+ stars out of 5

Henry of Pelham, Niagara Escarpment (henryofpelham.com)

2006 Riesling Icewine, Henry of Pelham, Niagara Escarpment
"Bright, crisp & clean" - HoP winemaker Ron Giesbrecht says. Pear, lemon confit, floral, honey & fresh fennel notes on the nose. Rich and very flavoursome, it has great acidity and a very long Williams pear finish. 4 1/2 stars out of 5

2006 Syrah, Canadian Oak, Lailey, Niagara Peninsula
Spicy nose of white pepper, blueberry, red currant with underlying and provocative floral, sundried tomato and horse stable nuances. Medium bodied with intense spicy berry flavours and grippy tannins. A very well made and pure expression of Syrah! 4+ stars out of 5.

Lailey Vineyard, Niagara River (laileyvineyard.com)

2006 Chardonnay, Old Vines, Lailey, Niagara River
"This is harvested from our vineyard...these vines were planted in 1973. We have lost a lot of these old vines from the poor winters of 2003 and 2005 but we are picking the older vines from within this block now and fermenting separately. This wine was just bottled in early December, with only 80 cases produced," winemaker Derek Barnett expains. Light golden and bright with mustard green tinge. Tropical fruit, cedar, fresh fennel, vanilla cream and fresh jarred raw honeycomb beeswax aroma combo. Medium to full bodied, viscous and flavoursome with a buttery texture and oak spice finish. Best to drink it 5-6 months from now when all elements will integrate and the wine will round out nicely. It will also age short to med term. 4 stars out of 5

2006 Pinot Noir, Lailey, Niagara River
High-toned red cherry, raspberry, potpourri, fresh ginger, earth, truffles and barnyard. Light to medium bodied with a fairly soft and juicy mouthfeel and light, chalky tannins. The finish has fresh, sour cranberry and loose tea leaf tones. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5

2006 Impromptu, Lailey, Niagara Peninsula
Red currant, cilantro, pink grapefruit, musk and leather. Light to medium bodied with thyme, savoury flavours. It has bright, but balanced acidity. Highly food friendly. Great with stew of white beans and tomato puree, Michael Stadtlander's smoked bacon, leek and salsify. 3 1/2 + stars out of 5

2006 Chardonnay, Lailey, Niagara Peninsula
Lime - lemon, popcorn - canned creamed corn, pear - pear blossom and limestone fragrances. Light to medium bodied and very crisp with zesty citrus fruit and neutral oak tones; earthy, mineral finish. Chablis lovers' Chardonnay! Needs food! 3 1/2 + stars out of 5

Osoyoos Larose, Okanagan

2005 Le Grand Vin, Osoyoos Larose, Okanagan Valley
It has the nose of a very good Haut-Medoc, but the texture of a great St. Emillion! Rich aromas of lush blue fruit and cassis, charred oak, smoke, tar and underlying mineral, herbal, pencil shavings, even seashell tones. Medium to full bodied and dry. It has a very concentrated flavour composition with polished oak notes poking out, and softer (compared to previous vintages), integrated tannins. An outstanding wine that will evolve nicely. Cellar it for at least 5 years! 4 1/2 + stars out of 5

Malivoire, Niagara (malivoirewineco.com)

2006 Melon, Malivoire, Niagara Peninsula
Brilliant light straw colour. Smells like fresh green apples, apple blossom and limestone. Light, but gutsy, dry and very tart with citrus, fresh herb, mineral flavours and finish.. Try it with meaty Irish Flat Galway oysters....That's what I did the other night at Starfish and the match was just spot on! 4 stars out of 5.

2005 Pinot Noir, Estate Bottled, Malivoire, Niagara Peninsula
700 cases made only. Red cherry, pomegranate, spicy sweet peony, mandarin orange and fresh trumpet mushroom aromas. Medium bodied with intense flavours and long finish. A great Pinot by "hands-in-the-dirt-winemaker" Shiraz Mottiar. I had it with Marc Thuet's boudin noir au jus and fresh white truffle mash and I was a happy camper! 4 stars out of 5

2005 Pinot Noir, Moira, Malivoire, Beamsville Bench
Bouquet of kirschwasser, red currant, raspberry, some soft blue fruit, mint, wild forest and white truffles. Medium bodied and it's not yet fully developed. It has an interesting flavour combo with persimmon, tamarillo and spicy notes on the palate and a youthful tannic bite on its finish. Decant if you drink it now, but best to cellar this baby for 2-3 years! 4+ stars out of 5.

2006 Cabernet Franc Icewine, Eastman Vineyard, Malivoire, Niagara Peninsula
Aromas of strawberry marmalade, white chocolate and dried flower petals and herbs with a hint of sweet paprika spice. It has a gorgeous mouthfeel, luscious flavours, an outstanding spine of acidity and a long finish. A superb icewine! 4 1/2 stars out of 5

Zoltan Szabo may be Canada's busiest sommelier. Find out more about Zoltan at www.zoltanszabo.ca