Butter Lane cupcakes

Lara Rabinovitch — Sun, 29 Mar 2009 15:29:15 -0400

Ever since Carrie Bradshaw sunk her teeth into a Magnolia cupcake, New York City has witnessed a downright craze for the iced confections. Lineups snake around the Bleecker Street bakery at all hours of the day and night, and giggly Sex and the City wannabes still can't seem to get enough. Soon offshoots sprouted all over the city—Billy’s, Buttercup, etc.—looking to cash in on the cupcake madness with their similarly toothsome versions. Personally, I always found such cupcakes a bit of a disappointment—and I’m not the only one to express such feelings. Critics have found the cupcake bottom itself stale tasting even when fresh, and the thick, sugary buttercream icing a bit much. All in all, why bother when bakeries like Magnolia serve excellent cakes such as the ethereal yet dense coconut cake, or the banana pudding, which would make a convert out of anyone.

So when Butter Lane cupcakes opened in my neighbourhood, I greeted it with only lukewarm feelings. Had the silly cupcake craze hit even my edgy East Village? One bite, though, and I was convinced. With a moist, airy, and flavourful cake bottom, and creamy, luscious icing, these cupcakes are not only the best I’ve had in a while, but also a departure from the others sprinkling the city. The three owners, Pam Nelson, Maria Baugh, and Linda Lea, source local, organic ingredients and make their cupcakes with fresh farm eggs to boot, including egg whites whipped into the French buttercream option available on most cupcakes. Unlike their competitors, Butter Lane uses no artificial flavouring either—so not hot pink or martian blue here. As befits their moniker, they make liberal use of butter yet without outbalancing the cupcake top, a common mistake. Most appealing of all, they keep a variety of cake and buttercream flavours on hand for custom mix and match. Banana, chocolate, and vanilla serve as the cupcake bases, with frostings such as cappuccino, blueberry, peanut butter, and more traditional vanilla and chocolate offerings as well. Besides coffee and tea, there’s nothing but cupcakes on the menu at Butter Lane—and for good reason.

Butter Lane cupcakes, 123 East Seventh Street, New York, 212.677.2880

Abraço

Lara Rabinovitch — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:35:12 -0500

Small space has never been an issue for New Yorkers. Hearing strangers’ conversations about last night’s romps and bumping elbows on crowded sidewalks are features of sharing this tiny island. And at the East Village coffee bar, Abraço, never has cramming into a small space been more of a privilege.

Abraço appears like one of those spots you happen upon while traveling through a dusty Catalan town or in some gloriously forgotten corner of Puglia. The coffee is served no nonsense, and, just like in every bar in Italy, never does this cappuccino scald your tongue, though there is nary a thermometer in sight. One does not need a coffee lexicon dictionary to order either. With his mop of salt and pepper hair, Jamie McCormick presides over the machine and prepares each cup with love—literally—as he effortlessly folds the foam into a heart shape, promising karmic bliss as you head into your day.

But the food is what really gets me at Abraço (which, by the way, means embrace in Portuguese). Behind the coffee bar a custardy frittata slightly resembling a Spanish tortilla rests in a luxurious puddle of olive oil—a running theme here. Pastry chef Elizabeth Quijada has already become famous for her olive oil cake, which amounts to a brilliant 21st century update on pound cake. Alchemist that she is, she also somehow prepares a sweet black olive studded shortbread that could have Ferran Adria begging for the recipe. Little tuna or egg sandwiches served on pillowy brioche are almost too precious to eat, and the decadent ricotta French toast fritters beckon as well. An ever-changing roster of simple prepared dishes—antipasti, salads, a soup—usually even things out, and everything is seasonally inspired (purple potato fried-to-order chips, thank you). So nibble on a Concord grape thumbprint cookie as you lean on your tiny spot of the bar. Sip your bliss and savour the buzz.

Abraço. 86 E. 7th Street, New York City. 212-388-9731

Porchetta

Lara Rabinovitch — Sat, 18 Oct 2008 15:16:18 -0400

Ask a New Yorker to name his ultimate comfort food and he will probably reply, "a good slice of pizza." But for others, nothing beats a perfectly executed sandwich.

With lines out its tiny East Village door, and four stars from the venerable if irreverent New York Magazine--"the meat is remarkably tender and the skin has turned to something like the color and consistency of a delicate peanut brittle"), Porchetta is the latest of sandwich crazes to hit the city. And with just cause. The prized Italian Porchetta sandwich offers the holy trinity of bread-filling-bread balanced ideal. Little pockets of porky juice perfectly fill the tiny holes of the soft ciabatta roll cradling the roasted, stuffed, and spiced meat. A pork platter sans bread, with beans and greens instead, can also be had for a Wall Street happy price.

Tuscan-raised Sara Jenkins, of 50 Carmine and Il Buco fame, opened the postage stamp-sized storefront just a few weeks ago, but the buzz has created a nearly permanent line up out the door (rumour has it the partners are looking in the West Village or Williamsburg for a second location). Mario Batali has already become a regular customer, and yesterday I dined next to Giorgio DeLuca (of Dean and DeLuca fame), while the guy on my other side speedily switched between his iphone and his Blackberry in true New York fashion. Meanwhile Dave, the otherwise genial goateed frontman at Porchetta, firmly responded to endless telephone calls, "Sorry, we don't take reservations.... No, really, we can't." There are precisely six bar stools, one counter, and zero tables at Porchetta.

Somehow the vibe remains remarkably relaxed. The aroma of roasting pork loin wrapped in pork belly must have something to do with that (at the rate of about 60 lbs per day). The menu also generously offers a selection for those less fortunate among us, i.e. the neighbourhood vegetarians: garlic and chili-infused sautéed greens, a chicory salad, and a fresh mozzarella sandwich--if they can resist the allure of the wafting porchetta.

Porchetta, 110 E. 7th St., nr. First Ave.; 212-777-2151.