Drink
Vancouver's Drinks Scene
By Judith Lane
The 'Fresh Bar' at George
Although it may not seem opposite of Vancouver’s perceived healthy, outdoor lifestyle,
the city's vibrant bar and cocktail scene probably jibes more with that ‘Lotusland’ tag that we’re often
labelled with. (In fact there’s a Fraser Valley winery called Lotusland Vineyards
that’s organic, sustainable and as green as can be.) Vancouver had revelled in the ‘art of the cocktail’ for several years when
bartender Jamie Boudreau (now at Seattle’s Tini Bigs) kicked off the classic
cocktail renaissance at
Lumière,
seriously raising the bar. We’re talking far beyond the sweet and fruity
‘martini’ style cocktails prevalent in bars and nightclubs. You can check out
Boudreau’s
blog to see what this celebrated Canadian is up to. (Boudreau regularly visits ‘home’
to see what his buds are up to and to judge cocktail competitions.)
Actually, we’re blessed with a raft of talented bartenders (note: bartender is the
preferred term in Vancouver rather than 'mixologist') all grounded in the
classics—Sazerac, Black and Tan, Ramos Gin Fizz, and the Martini –and are on the
cutting edge of contemporary cocktail craft.
Some of the current crop of star contenders—the names are lauded on the cocktail
circuit—include Jay Jones and Brian Grant of
Voya, JT aka Justin Tisdall of
MARKET (Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Vancouver restaurant and bar), Cameron Bogue
and Dani Tatarin at
db bistro moderne, Boneta’s Mark Brand, Chambar’s Tannis
Ling and Wendy McGuiness, Josh Pape previously at Chambar, Sophie Taverner and
Steve da Cruz both ex Boneta, Cascade’s Nick Devine, Trevor Kailles of the
Granville Room, David Wolowidnyk from
West, and Shaun Layton of
George Ultra
Lounge to cite a few.
Part of the scene are the dozens of cocktail competitions each year, many sponsored by spirit
companies like Grey Goose and Giffard, which keep local bartenders on their toes
and the industry fresh, sharp and in the spotlight. I recently attended the First Annual Greenhouse Cocktail Throwdown, the latest cocktail
competition sponsored by picture perfect
Vista D’Oro Farms & Winery in the
Fraser Valley. Five Vancouver bartenders trekked out to the
farm to see who slay the judges with a summer cocktail using feature ingredient D’Oro, a fortified walnut wine. The competition was in a large, very warm
greenhouse (rain was expected but it turned gloriously sunny and warm). Jay
Jones’ easy drinking Bourbon-based Gold Fashioned took the prize.
Competition is friendly but fierce in this town and bartenders are continually
pushing, whether it’s sourcing unique ingredients, making their own bitters and
syrups, honing and evolving the classics, or devising harmonious new drinks. And
lucky for us, there are four new bar-centric restaurants opening in quick order, all
with bartending partners. The Diamond’s Mark Brand, Sophie Taverner and Josh
Pape are all bartenders and their establishment is just days away from opening
in Gastown at 6 Powell Street. Asian-influenced plates and cool cocktails are
planned, and it will stay open late. The Corner Suite Bistro Deluxe helmed by
bartender Steve da Cruz, front man André McGillvray, and chef
Anthony Sedlak
from the Food Network’s 'The Main' in behind the burners. Jay Jones and chef Chris
Irving’s Pourhouse opens in Gastown in the fall, about the same time as
bartender Tannis Ling’s Bao Bei (meaning precious, honey, darling) opens in
Chinatown. Ling’s menu will focus on Chinese comfort food and tasty cocktails.
Tara Thom and her gang at just-opened Maenam Thai Restaurant have
some cool Asian drinks that incorporate lemon grass, Thai basil, chili, and
ginger, and Nick Devine at the Cascade Room brings a dash of English wit to his
drinks. Both are favourites of mine.
And, of course, there many evenings when I'd just like a glass of wine. Au Petit Chavignol, a new charcuterie,
cheese and wine spot, has a killer selection of bubbles, Rieslings, Spanish and
French wines, many by the glass. And there are also a few interesting off list
wines to check out—just ask. Yew in the Four Seasons will open any wine on its
expansive list as long as you order two glasses. If you’re not up for that,
check out what’s already uncorked. Cost is 20% of the listed bottled price.
Raincity Grill has a vast selection—usually around 100—of Pacific Northwest
wines by the glass and a fab view of English Bay. On a sunny day, nothing beats
bubbles and oysters on C Restaurant’s False Creek-side patio. Le Gavroche is
famous for its very deep cellar of French and B.C. wines. Hop on a bar stool and
see what proprietor Manny Ferreira is pouring. His wine picks are always worth
exploring. Boneta’s sommelier Neil Ingram stocks a fabulous, esoteric selection
of wines. Put yourself in his hands and enjoy.
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