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Victory Gardens: Old Ideas for a New World
By Joshna Maharaj
Victory gardeners in front of San Francisco's City Hall. Courtesy slowfood.org
I’ve been doing some research, and have discovered that during both world wars, victory gardens were planted in private homes and public spaces across North America, the UK and Australia to reduce the pressure that war placed on the public food supply. Gardeners were empowered by their labour contribution, and communities were rewarded with beautiful, local produce. In fact, these victory gardens produced almost half of all the produce that was consumed during the war years. While indirectly supporting the war effort, these gardens also provided a morale boost for the communities who nurtured them.
By the 1940s, many Canadians had never grown their own food before. The great events of this time, however, required everyone to pitch in and contribute to the war effort. Early attempts to foster home growing, in the Second World War, wee nearly quashed by nervous government officials who worried that novice gardeners might fail and the consequently waste scarce fertilizer, soil, tools & water. Thankfully, Emily Schofield and Elizabeth MacKenzie disagreed, and they wrote to the Minister of Agriculture, J.G. Gardiner urging "every citizen [to] endeavour to grow more vegetables in order to make an appreciable difference in the situation that confronts us," and claiming this war effort to be "of primary importance." After years of considerable discussion and scepticism, the Canadian federal government finally threw their support behind these community gardens in the growing season of 1943.
The ministry of agriculture even produced a guide called, The Wartime Garden proclaiming that "there is a greater need for home food production of vegetables now than at any time during the war. Every available bit of land that is suitable should be put into a garden. Those with experience should help their neighbours who wish to start". By the end of 1943, there were more than 200 000 victory gardens in Canada, producing about 550lb of produce each!
While our political and social climate has changed considerably in the last 65 years, our need for a sustainable local food system has perhaps never been so great. International agribusiness and a capitalist food culture have distanced people from their food source, resulting in a smorgasbord of health, economic and environmental crises on both a global and local level.
The sails of community gardens are slowly being re-invigorated by a desire for a sustainable local food culture. In Toronto, there are many amazingly innovative and vibrant community gardens producing beautiful food right here in the 416! At The Stop, where I am Chef, our garden in Earlscourt Park produces about 2 tonnes of organic produce a year, which is shared through our food bank and dining programs. In addition to the sheer volume of food that is produced, healthy neighbourhoods are nurtured, and as people share their time and skills with each other, communities are built. This theme of sustainability will come to life at The Stop’s Green Barn, where a temperate greenhouse and covered garden will allow us to produce incredible amounts of food, right here in the city. Said the mayor of Vancouver in 1943: "The basic principle of the Victory Garden is self-reliance."
In this same spirit, the Slow Food organization has attempted to encourage and nurture local food cultures. From preserving traditional farming techniques to celebrating regional cooking methods, Slow Food promotes good, clean, fair food.
Alice Waters, food activist, educator and founder of Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, California is an International Governor of Slow Food, and tireless advocate of returning people to "the traditions of the table". With a high-powered team of chefs, farmers, writers and activists in the US, Waters has created Slow Food Nation, a weekend of activity celebrating American food. This year, from August 29 to September 1, San Francisco will be home to foodies and farmers who will come together to share, teach, cook, tour and eat the bounty of local food. And I'm going to see what it's all about (stay tuned to Gremolata for my report.)
While I'd love to see a similar celebration of Canadian food, as a young chef and good food activist, Slow Food Nation offers me the chance to spend time with some of the most inspired and influential voices of the movement. I just cannot resist. I’ve got tickets for three workshops, including one with smartypants chef Dan Barber on Re-localizing food, and another on Edible Education with my beloved Alice Waters. I’ve got two weeks to eat my way through the Bay Area, and I can’t wait! With all the love and pride I have in Ontario farms and produce, there is nothing quite like California at the peak of the harvest.
In a salute to the vision of days gone by, and in support of a movement for change, a Victory Garden has been planted in San Francisco’s Civic Centre for this weekend celebration. It’s an edible ornamental garden, and all of the produce will be shared through city food banks. It is hoped that the garden will re-invigorate its surrounding community, and stand as a voice in support of sustainable, local food cultures. I’ve got a private eye on the streets of San Francisco, who just sent me a pic of the start of this Victory Garden that you see above (there are more here). And please remember this, dear reader: while the threats to our health and safety may be different in 2008 than they were in 1943, they are no less serious. The good news is, our ability to collect and work together to re-invest in ourselves is stronger than ever before. Grow some food. Cook it with love. Share it with others.
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