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Giving Thanks

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By Joshna Maharaj

It’s hard to believe, but Thanksgiving weekend is already upon us. This is my absolute favourite time of year, because there is magic afoot, with the changing leaves and crisp air. When I was younger, I remember being so mystified by the leaves changing colours. I understood the scientific explanation, but couldn’t help but be dazzled at the thought that all the green leaves of spring and summer were actually buttery yellows, warm oranges and fiery reds, just waiting for the right time to reveal themselves.

Besides the weather, the seriously loveable thing about autumn is the food. All of my favourite tastes are wrapped up in this season, and culminate in the feast of Thanksgiving dinner. Thanksgiving is the one holiday where a family’s main purpose for gathering is to eat their faces off…I love it!

Years ago, the vastness of a Thanksgiving table was determined by how gracious the Gods were in their blessings of rain and favourable growing conditions. Thanks were offered for these blessings and the wealth and sustainability of a community were celebrated. In this spirit, a menu emerged, with standards that are still prepared year after year, with little to no variation on their original presentation. Certain aunts have their famous sweet potatoes or stuffing, your grandmother makes the best cranberry sauce, and nothings beats Dad’s brined turkey. We might not realize it, but those bowls of roasted potatoes and cranberry sauce also hold the traditions and rituals of our family. There is comfort, I think, in eating food that is reliably the same year after year. I also think that flavour is closely linked to our memory, and eating apples, turkey and pumpkin just feels right for this time of year. These are the tastes of the preparation for hibernation, and these warm, sweet mouthfuls get us nicely padded to endure the cold winter.

For my family of first generation Canadian Hindus, Thanksgiving was one of the celebrations of our new country that we could really sink our teeth into. The very simple message of offering gratitude for food and prosperity is universal and meaningful to many of the world’s traditions. Besides, Indians generally relish any opportunity to cook everything in the house and invite everyone over to share it! One of the few recipes I have passed down from my grandmother is for her stuffing. It’s still the best I’ve ever tasted, and to many of my British friends, the humour of an Indian family with a killer stuffing recipe is not lost at all.

It starts with potatoes, Yukon golds, which are boiled, mashed, seasoned and set aside. In a huge pot on the stove, an obscene amount of butter is melted, and to this a few bunches of chopped scallions are added and lightly sautéed with salt and pepper. To this mixture, enough fresh breadcrumbs (we always use fresh breadcrumbs) are added to create nice buttery clumps. Tonnes of fresh thyme and curly parsley are added, as well as dried thyme, salt and pepper. Mix well, but gently to combine. Once the breadcrumb mixture is well seasoned, the mashed potatoes are returned to the pot and the whole mixture gets one more thorough toss. The key to this is a vigorous, yet gentle stir to incorporate all ingredients together, but not let the mixture become pasty, as you want to eat recognizable pieces of potato, bread and herbs. There is a good bit of elbow grease required here, but it’s totally worth it…trust me. Re-seasoning with more fresh herbs, butter or salt and pepper is usually required at this stage. The final product is a deliciously soft, buttery, herby stuffing with texture, crunch and a whole lotta flavour. There is no written recipe for this stuffing, so you are forced to use your senses and intuition to get it right. This is freestyle cooking, and I encourage you to give it a go…just keep tasting and adjusting the flavours until you’re happy with it.

I was about 23, I think, when I cooked my first Thanksgiving dinner. My brother and I were challenged with the task of creating our mom’s stuffing in her absence. I remember lots of giggling while we were both elbow-deep in potatoes and breadcrumbs. This is the stuff of good memories, and the honour of being entrusted with the job of maintaining and continuing tradition this way will hold a treasured place in my heart, I’m sure, for the rest of my life. This year I am urging anyone who will listen to get their hands on some beautiful harvest produce and cook something delicious for the people they love. There is a lot to be thankful for, and as a chef, cooking is a perfect way for me to give thanks.